Overheating Pontiac 400

Need help I am pulling my hair out about this. I have a 1972 Ventura with a 400 in it. I can't stop this thing from overheating. I replaced the radiator with an aluminum, went to electric fan, electric water pump,water wetter, did the thing with the divider plate, replaced head gaskets. Don't know what else is left. Years ago I had a 70 TA with a 400 and didn't have the problems that I am having now. I even run 100 octane gas in it. Any Ideas before I replace this 400 with a small block Chevy. Don't want to.  

wheres the timing? and what distributor do you have?  
dynotech performance
engine builder
turbo buick & pontiac service & tech
631-777-DYNO

HEI distributor timing around 20  

20 what initial or total also do you have a vacuum advance  
professional hi-performance engine builder

Horsepower sells engines and torque wins races

Have vacume advance. I dont realy know my timing. On the timing cover plate it goes up to 16 degrees I'm past that to keep car running. I don't have any way to know exactly.  

well that alone will make you over heat fix the timing then look at the temp intial timing should be around 10-12 deg for starters  
dynotech performance
engine builder
turbo buick & pontiac service & tech
631-777-DYNO

So what you are saying is that I have to much timing. Unhook vacuum advance and set it at 12 ?  

if your at 20 deg you will surely overheat you should be between 10-12 at idle and no more than 35-36 deg total if you wont run at 12 deg you have another problem. it will never run cool past that  
dynotech performance
engine builder
turbo buick & pontiac service & tech
631-777-DYNO

Ok set timing at 10 degrees adjusted carb so it would idle still climbs up over 230 degrees. Whats next. Should I knock out the plugs to the block and flush? Could I have the lifters to tight hydraulic. I'm lost! and frustrated  

Have you checked the balancer to see if it was spun.Also the drain plugs thread in to the block and if you flush it you will need to remove the plug on both sides. What did you adjust the lifters to.  
professional hi-performance engine builder

Horsepower sells engines and torque wins races

Zero lash plus 1/2 turn like the instructions said, will readjust. Didn't know the balancer could spin. How will I tell? Though the drain plugs just hammered in didn't know they were threaded thanks.  

The setting on the the valves is zero lash then a 1/4 turn.Look at thebalancer and see is the ruubber ring is pushed out or pushed in any were.  
professional hi-performance engine builder

Horsepower sells engines and torque wins races

I do not run a thermostat but a Moroso restrictor washer. I also have the return line from EACH head, not just the passenger side head, run into the intake manifold instead of returning back to the water pump. I also block the passage from the front of the intake manifold to the water pump. Both of these return lines add HOT water to mix with the cool water from the radiator returning to the engine. I make 575hp and can idle in traffic on a 95 degree day and only get to 200 degrees. As soon as I start to move I am at 160 degrees. The only drawback is, it takes longer to warm the engine up. Most of the time I run at 160 degrees even on 100 degree day.  

Why do you block off the manifold to the water pump?  

OK you got me. I run 6x heads on a 400. 10.5:1 comp, hei, ebrock perf intake, carb. Runs hot. I love your idea. My 6x heads only have return line on one head. How do I get return line on other?? How do you run it into intake? What do you do with the return port on the timing cover?? Could you take some pictures and email me?? joseph.hinke@wildblue.net
Thanks.......