recently bought a 403 78 t.a.moor runs good but just got beat by a stang need more power  

While a 400 swap would be desireable, there are ways to improve what you've got. The 403 will respond well to all the traditional bolt-ons/bolt-ins. A cam upgrade, Performer intake, headers and full duals and gear/converter changes will really wake it up. Any idea what gears you have in the rearend? If not, what rpm does it turn at 60mph and what size tires do you run? How do you intend to use the car? Mainly around town, long highway cruises, dragstrip (yes/no?) Let me know and Ill help you whoop some Mustang butt! Of course the easiest swap would be an early 70's hi-po Olds 455! The Stangs won't even leave the barn!
Steve  

the car will be used mostly for street with some cruises and the occasional 1/4 mi. pass the rear is a 10.5" but the gearing i haven't figured out yet it runs about 1500r.p.m at 60 m.p.h i was told you could only go so far with the performace of the 403 also have you ever heard of the distributer locking up I tried to time the car but the dist wouldn't move Ipulled the hold down all the way out and put a 1"wrench on the boss of the dist a couldn't even budge it the car isn't that far off onlt about 4-5 degrees but it baffles me that it wouldn't move  

All right. lets sort this out for you. Theoretically, to turn 1500 rpm at 60 mph, with tires in the typical 25" range (P225/70R15, stock size for TA), requires a gear ratio of around 1.80:1 with no overdrive trans. Since GM never made such a gear, and the typical factory ratio for these cars were 2.41, 2.56, 2.73, 3.08 and 3.23, I would assume (dangerous, I know) that the car came with either 2.41 or 2.56 gears. This allows great high speed cruising but severely limits off-the-line power. Recheck your actual cruise rpm to be sure. Your factory diff is an 8.5" not a 10.5", there is no such axle from GM.
For great around town performance and the occasional drag strip blast, I would recommend you look at the following mods. The engine, if in good overall condition, can use a cam like the Comp Cams 260-268 range hydraulic and an Edelbrock Performer intake- it fits with the Q-jet and shaker. Use the stock Q-jet (rebuild as necessary and tune jetting and metering rods using an Edelbrock kit, but try it first as is), get some headers- pick a good brand not the cheapies, and one of the nice dual exhaust kits from Pypes, Flowmaster etc. in the 2 1/2" range with a crossover (preferably an X crossover) and reasonably quiet mufflers (less hassle when you want to play!). Change the rearend gears to 3.42's, you won't believe the difference they make! When looking for gears, try to find a complete 3.42 posi and change the whole housing, your stock posi (assuming you have one) won't fit the deeper gears, they change posi cases when going down from 2.73 to 3.08. With this setup you can use the th350 trans and stock converter or switch to slightly higher stall speed (1800-2000rpm) for a bit more bottom end. If you find the extra rpm too much on the highway: 3000rpm @65mph, then consider switching to 200-4r overdrive trans, it will bolt-in in place of the 350 trans with some mods to the shifter (I'm doing this swap myself this winter if time and money allows) and will drop the rpm to 2000 at 65mph. I believe these simple mods will give you a strong mid-high-14 second car that runs on 87 octane pump gas and street tires, while still having excellent driveability and retaining all accessories (A/C, cruise control, PS, PB).
Now about your distributor problem, I can't recall if the distributor goes in the block or thru the intake on the Olds 403, but it is obvious that the aluminum distributor body has seized in the iron casting. I would remove the dist cap and all wires from the area and heat the iron casting around the dist body- not the dist body itself- and try the big wrench again. If the dist goes thru the intake, remove the manifold and dist together and heat it from underneath. As for the timing itself, I suggest base timing in the 10-12 degrees range and mechanical advance of 20-24 at 3000rpm for a total of 30-36 degrees with vacuum advance unplugged, plus another 10-15 of vacuum advance. The stock springs and weights won't likely come close so buy a curve kit- about $15.  

thanks for the info i've ordered a set of flowtech ceramic coated headers with 1 3/4" primararies and the rest of the exhaust is new 2 1/2" and an h-pipe i've rechecked the r.p.m at 60m.p.h. and you are correct it runs 2000r.p.m as for the distributor it goes through the block so i will try to heat the area around the dist shaft with a small propane torch. I unfortunatly have tried to tune the q-jet to no avail it does run smoother but i've noticed very little performance increase but i will admit that i'm a little confused by the info i've read about how to properly tune the q-jet i think i will try to find a reputable shop to tune it  

the cam you recommended can i use that with stock springs? also is there a better set of factory heads or can i rework them for better flow again thank you for all the help there are very few people i've found to answer all my questions i will post a picture soon are there any companies out there that have interior trim pieces that you know of?  

According to the rpm you have either the 2.41 or 2.56 gears, so there is lots of room for improvement just by changing to lower gears (numerically higher ie: 3.42:1). As for valve springs, check with the cam company tech lines, usually they will recommend a better spring. The stock ones have lots of mileage on them and even if they don't bind or stack with the added lift, they will tend to let the valves float as rpm increases due to the lost tension. At this performance level I would leave the heads alone and see what can be done with bolt-ons. Check the ads in HPP for some of the carb shops to see what they can do for your Q-jet. Classic Industries, Year One and Ames should have most of the interior parts for your TA.
Steve