I have a 80 Firebird that I am cloning into a 77/78 Trans-Am,and no it's not the normal nose swap. I have replaced the tail panel with the correct one. I have completely changed this car over to a 77/78 TA. It has had a full body off rotisserie restoration. No corners cut. This car will be a major sleeper. It will look bone stock from the outside to the enterior, minus the roll bar,(I plan to be fast enough to require it and also don't want to tweak the body - and no it want even be close to stock under the hood.) I am converting it to a manual and have a close ratio muncie and a wide ratio muncie. I really would like to use the wide ratio with 3.42 or 3.73 gears. I will be running 245/60/15 tires on the street but will be using 255/60/15 M/T drag radials at the strip. The problem with this combo is the engine. Its a pump gas 501 cubic inch 455 that will be making north of 600 hp. I also plan on adding a 2 stage nitrous kit, (fogger and top shot kit). This will mainly be for show, but I will shoot it eventually. I love the old school feel of yanking gears and know that it will draw a lot of attention at the races and at the shows, that is if I can drive a stick. I am scared that the trans want hold up. Lots of people have been telling me to just put an auto in it and ride but I don't want to be just another auto T/A at the shows. There is something about a manual T/A that works for me. When I go to the shows, the first thing I do is look inside to see if its a stick, then I say to my self, "It's just another automatic." I still race my cars no matter what, if I brake it I'll fix it. So with all this said. What do you guys think? Will I beable to put all the power to it or will I have to baby it so the trans will stay in one piece. I know there are guys out there running 4 speeds and putting them in the low 10's to high 9's in the quarter. I saw it at the 2007 and 2008 Pontiacs in the Park event in Virginia. Any info would greatly be appreciated.  

Your line "that is if I can drive a stick" says alot! If you can't drive a stick, then 600+ Hp + 2 stages of nitrous and sticky tires is not the way to learn. I once new a guy who built a 355 powered 4spd 81 Z28 that was capable of low 13's, maybe a bit more, but he couldn't drive a stick. The guy would launch at 1100rpm, slipping the clutch and granny shift it at 4000 rpm, because he was afraid of breaking it! The car would run maybe high 15's like that and he couldn't understand why it wouldn't even spin the tires. The engine was cammed for 6500rpm and had 3.42 gears, but was hampered by huge 295/50r15 BFG's. If you dumped the clutch at 3500-4000 rpm and powershifted it at 6200rpm (full throttle, clutch in, shift and dump the clutch) it would go like a scared rabbit. The driver made all the difference in the world. Learn to drive stick first, then build a car you can handle. You are talking about huge HP and torque, the kind that requires a full cage, subframe connectors and aftermarket trans, diff and axles, even still you will break stuff, often.
Steve  

With a 600hp motor and 2 stages of nitrous you'll destroy a muncie 4spd pretty quickly under hard driving.  Muncies were not built for that kind of torture.  On motor alone I'll be at around 600 and tq over 600.  That's why I went with a TKO600.  Even that probably can't handle side stepping the clutch on hard launches with sticky tires.  

Thanks guys. Don't get me wrong, I am no stranger to racing pontiacs that make big power and I am very aware of what it takes to get the car to handle it. This is not my first build up. I knew the answer before I posted this. I have a built automatic ready to drop in but would rather have the 4 speed. Well looks like I may have some mucies for sale and a lot of other 4 speed parts. I may just put a 4 speed in my 70 Lemans Sport 400 instead, Its the family ride. Thanks alot guys!!!