Cylinder installation questions

Intake manifold bolt torque specs are 40FTLBS.  
professional hi-performance engine builder

Horsepower sells engines and torque wins races

Excellent!  Thank you so much for the advice.  Ok the 20 ft lbs sounds good for my application for the rockers.  I'm going to find the intake manifold torque info.  Good thing I asked!!  I'm going to do some research on oil like you said.  Did you say diesel oil??

I'm pumped to run this engine!!  Once I finish getting the engine back together I need to change the oil, hook up some gauges, and start it up!  
1969 GTO, YS code 400, 350hp/445 ft lbs of torque (stock specs), LT headers, H-pipe, 750 Holley 4160, Ignitor II ignition.  Complete Painless wiring.

All I need to do now is change the oil.  I read some of the technical articles on motor oil and how it has changed for the worse for older flat tappet engines.  I'm a little unclear on what oil to buy though.  Amsoil? GM's EOS?  I'd rather not spend 10 bucks a quart on oil.  
1969 GTO, YS code 400, 350hp/445 ft lbs of torque (stock specs), LT headers, H-pipe, 750 Holley 4160, Ignitor II ignition.  Complete Painless wiring.

This is what I use in all my high performance engines and even for breakin on flat tappet cams lucas oil stabilizer and valvoline 30wt oil but be sure to mix the lucas with the oil before you dump it in.  
professional hi-performance engine builder

Horsepower sells engines and torque wins races

I'm sorry...  what is 30wt compared to 10w 30?  My engine is not all that "high performance" (yet), so would this be overkill for a mostly stock engine?  I didn't install a new cam or lifters, so maybe I don't need the Lucas oil stabilizer?

Reading about the importance of oil and how it's changing kind of gave me a scare.  
1969 GTO, YS code 400, 350hp/445 ft lbs of torque (stock specs), LT headers, H-pipe, 750 Holley 4160, Ignitor II ignition.  Complete Painless wiring.

Ok sense you did not install a new cam & lifters then regular oil will be fine or just use shell rotella 15w-40.  
professional hi-performance engine builder

Horsepower sells engines and torque wins races

Rotella T is a heavy duty motor oil for use in diesel engines in tractor-trailers. Most parts stores should be able to get it if they don't stock it or go to a truck maintenance shop. Consider this: most truck fleets change their oil at about 20,000km(12-13000miles) and most heavy duty diesel engines can go almost a million miles before overhaul thanks to excellent oil film protection.
Our 355 SBC ran 2 full race seasons at 6000rpm on Rotella and the bearings didn't have a mark on them and the cam lobes measured right on spec.
Buying tip: most truck shops will sell from their bulk tank for less $$(10%) than buying jugs, be sure to bring a clean jug.
Steve  
Trying to help... 'cause we don't all have to learn the hard way!

I got some 15w 40 from Walmart at 12 bucks a gallon jug.  Not bad.  I poured it on the valve train and pushrods etc.  I installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge and water temp gauge.  The battery is on a trickle charge.  I'm going to start it up tomorrow morning!  All I need is a new set of plugs.  What should I run, AC delcos?  Also, should I install the oil baffles or can I get away without them?

This is my first time being this far into an engine on my own.  I've got my fingers crossed and trying to stay confident.  
1969 GTO, YS code 400, 350hp/445 ft lbs of torque (stock specs), LT headers, H-pipe, 750 Holley 4160, Ignitor II ignition.  Complete Painless wiring.

I would use ac delco plugs.  
professional hi-performance engine builder

Horsepower sells engines and torque wins races

Okay, I got some new AC delco plugs and put them in.  I fired up the engine and it sounded very unhappy.  The fuel is kinda old, and it's a little chilly out so that's not helping.  I loosened the dist and turned it back a bit and that smoothed it out.  It still didn't want to idle, but like I said, it's cold and old fuel.  

I heard a tapping/clicking valvetrain noise when I revved it to keep it alive.  I pulled off the driver's side valve cover and found that a few rockers were loose.  I could wiggle them with my hand.  I whipped out the torque wrench, and it was clicking at 20 ft lbs, so I kept tightening and they still don't want to tighten up.  The studs aren't moving.  What's going on??  20 ft lbs doesn't seem adequate.  I don't want to overtighten them.

I do have oil pressure, confirmed by my new oil pressure gauge.  
1969 GTO, YS code 400, 350hp/445 ft lbs of torque (stock specs), LT headers, H-pipe, 750 Holley 4160, Ignitor II ignition.  Complete Painless wiring.

You are getting oil to the rockers arms right?

I never use the rocker nuts that you torque to 20 FTLBS you need to buy the self locking rocker nuts.  
professional hi-performance engine builder

Horsepower sells engines and torque wins races

It's all stock so yes, I have the bottle neck design.  I need to invest in a set of poly locks and maybe some roller rockers too.  As for now, I re-torqued all the rocker nuts to 20 ft lbs again.  They're still making a little noise.  I'm assuming they're getting oil, because they're coated with oil.  For now, before I get poly locks, should I worry about the tapping noise?  
1969 GTO, YS code 400, 350hp/445 ft lbs of torque (stock specs), LT headers, H-pipe, 750 Holley 4160, Ignitor II ignition.  Complete Painless wiring.

Yes if it contiues to keep tapping then it can and most likely will damage the lobes on the cam.  
professional hi-performance engine builder

Horsepower sells engines and torque wins races

Crap!! Okay, I'm not sure what to do about that.  I suppose I need to buy poly locks and studs, and tighten them using the Chevy method??

Well, it's running, but it's running poorly, and keeps getting worse.  I did a compression test, the lowest is 125, the highest is 150.  All the spark plugs form the passenger side bank are black and sooty.  #1 is powdery black, #3 looks great!, #5 is glossy black, #7 is powdery black.

It pops, backfires, and smokes a little.  Ohhh man...  
1969 GTO, YS code 400, 350hp/445 ft lbs of torque (stock specs), LT headers, H-pipe, 750 Holley 4160, Ignitor II ignition.  Complete Painless wiring.

You do not have to buy poly lock style nuts you just need the self locking rocker nuts for the studs you have now.  
professional hi-performance engine builder

Horsepower sells engines and torque wins races