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Help!! Please rebuilding 400 pontiac

  
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Help!! Please rebuilding 400 pontiac

 
blackbird72 blackbird72
User | Posts: 150 | Joined: 08/07
Posted: 04/15/09
06:42 AM

Ally,
I prefer KRE's because you can stay with D-port headers if you already have them and they take less timing to make comparative power (e-heads need more timing to make the same power). But if you can get a better deal on the e-heads and you can afford them go for it- they're good too IMO. On a 400 you should run the 72cc e-heads, as the 10.5:1 CR is still compatible with pump gas (aluminum dissipates heat better than cast iron, so the higher CR is okay).

Most Pontiac performance motors are set up to run on 91-93 octane pump gas. I cc'd my no.48's and opened the chambers up to 85cc to get them to run on 91- it works but I definitely can tell when the gas isn't 91 octane. My mpg with the 406 is around 13-16, less if I'm Mr. Leadfoot. Alot of that is due the Holley 750 VS w/seconday metering block- I've got big jets in it but it works well.

Geno  

 
Pontiacman8 Pontiacman8
Guru | Posts: 1417 | Joined: 02/08
Posted: 04/15/09
09:10 AM

If you can afford the edelbrocks then I would recomend getting the edel brock heads over any thing else if not then find some good iron heads.  
professional hi-performance engine builder

Horsepower sells engines and torque wins races

 
poor_mans_goat poor_mans_goat
New User | Posts: 20 | Joined: 04/09
Posted: 04/18/09
09:16 AM

Hey boss, I just want to say that the 87cc heads may be what you don't need.

Here is a couple simple questions:

1: Find out the make of your heads.

http://www.angelfire.com/fl4/pontiacdude428/HeadID.html

http://www.pontiacpower.org/head.htm

2: What exactly do you want out of this build?

    Stop bench racing, and get your head out of the Summit and Jegs books, and seriously think about what you expect out of the engine.
    Iron heads will do nicely with an engine if you do not plan to do anything wild with your engine. Aluminum heads are really only for a race application where you are running a high compression ratio. Aluminum disipates heat quicker than iron.

poor_mans_goat comes from my lemans being nicknamed a "poor mans goat." It just so happened that I am flat broke and busted now a days.

    Myself, I am planning a mild build but to each his own. Good luck in your build and remember to have fun. This is a hobby after all. NOT A MONEY PIT.  

 
mildchild mildchild
New User | Posts: 39 | Joined: 12/08
Posted: 10/01/09
04:29 PM

ive heard that keith black pistons will rip off the top ring under mild detonation  

 
Pontiacman8 Pontiacman8
Guru | Posts: 1417 | Joined: 02/08
Posted: 10/01/09
04:43 PM

I've only seen that happen when the ring gaps were not set right.  
professional hi-performance engine builder

Horsepower sells engines and torque wins races

 
RAMairGTO72 RAMairGTO72
New User | Posts: 5 | Joined: 01/09
Posted: 10/08/09
04:17 PM

I know this is an older post, but thought that I would add in cam that I have had lots of luck with in .30 .40 over 400s, it boils down to what you want to put up with tho. To anyone reading this thinking about a good Hyd cam this might be your ticket to get a ticket?

Edelbrock 292D .501 in .501 ex Summit #COMP Cams K51-240-4 this one is a kit.

When I used this cam I had a .30 400 RAMAIR III heads shaved and ported (#13s) Erson head rebuild kit & hardened seats, poly locks, they were the very last set of heads done at Niagara Machine in Erie PA, the place once did engine work for many "little know" racers.

This cam needs a converter of around 3,000ish, with this cam & B&M 3,200 stall I end up stalling around 3,500. It quickly showed everyone I didnt have good enough tires! lol It's got lope with 292D and for factory rods it "wakes-up" right around the time factory rods want to "throw-up" you also cant work around a factory converter and you need low gears I started out with 3.73s but ended up with 4.10

At night sitting at a street light the headlights would dim up & down as you could almost count off each cylinder firing.

72 GTO lots of glass 1970 400 .30 over shaved & ported #13s (no pump gas...at all) 12 bolt welded tubes 4:11s posi, ladder bars, TH475 B&M stage 3 shift kit on a TCI master race rebuild kit. Fuel cell Holley "red" pump, cut Edl Tq intake with polished primaries & secondaries in the 750 #1407 Edl carb. TRW pistons factory rods that were beamed, polished, stress released, shot peened, resized, and bolted together with ARP bolts.

I have run them up to 6,000 with around 12:1, the block was line honed, squared, decked and assembled with ARP studs with it's wedged, balanced rebuilt crank all balanced.

The engine sits in the back of my garage, see when it was built it was the late 90s, we didnt have all the goodies we have now, however it was a runner, I pulled it with only 2,000ish on her.

Real PMD cars don't have Chevy engines as well Real PMD guys don't buy Chevy parts or rebaged Holden imports!  

 
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Pontiac Vibe Research
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