Rear Suspension

Hey all, I'm new to the forum. I'm about to purchase a 1979 TA with a 455. However, there is one issue with the car that I know of. The rear suspension needs to be replaced, what kind of suspension do you guys recommend? A link would be excellent, I'm on a tight budget at this point, so lets keep that in mind too. Thanks!!  

I guess it depends on what you are going to use the car for.It sounds cool to say you have a four link but unless you are going to build an all out drag car running 10 seconds or faster you really don't need one. This set up requires a lot of fabrication and can be very expensive on a '79. If the 79 is "sagging" in the rear you would be better off replacing the leafs with some new 5 leaf replacement springs.While you are replacing them put poly bushings in instead of the rubber ones. The only other problem I had was snapping the center bolts on the leaf springs and shifting the left rear forward due to the torque monster 455. I solved this by putting some beefy traction bars on. I used the competion engineering bars with the J-bolts and haven't shifted the rear since. Just a thought but if the rear suspension is that bad you might want to go through and rebuild the front suspension as well. If you have more questions along the way this forum has loads of guys with tons of experiance feel free to ask away.Welcome aboard!!!!  

If you are on a budget, stick with rebuilding the stock rear suspension. Most sources for parts will sell you a kit with new springs, all new mounting hardware (including u-bolts and the rubber pads between the axle and spring) and new rear shackles/pins and bushings. Definitely go with the 5 leaf springs, the 4 leaf ones will not maintain ride height for long. I've heard conflicting theories about poly bushings in leaf springs, mainly due to suspension binding issues, so my 79 Formula uses all new rubber bushings and it works great. I also used an old trick from Herb Adams, I re-drilled the front spring eye bracket so the mounting hole was 3/4" higher in the bracket and cut the top out of the bracket to allow the spring to sit higher in the pocket. This mod changes the instant center of the suspension intersection point and improves both traction and handling. A great source of info on 2nd gen f-body suspension is pro-touring f-body.com. Email them for a free catalog full of suspension tips and info as well as the products they sell. It is an excellent reference and much of their stuff is based on Herb Adams Fire-Am products (or appears to be!). Another place to improve is the subframe mounting bushings, usually they are rotten and cracked and faling out. I'm in the process of installing solid polygraphite bushings in mine, a friend has them in his 80 Turbo TA and the difference in ride and handling over the worn out stuff is amazing.
Steve  
Trying to help... 'cause we don't all have to learn the hard way!

As Barney has stated the trick with the front eye bracket is a good move-Sub frame bushings (polygraphite) Another surefire improvement is bolt in subframe connectors
which can be welded later.In the past this along with the sub frame bushings has improved handling-sway bar bushings and end link kits are simple changes that help a great deal when combined with above listed changes
Also as creepy said check out the front suspension as time and money permit
Much of the suspension work is labor intensive Not difficult you can rent most needed tools and a floor jack along with good jack stands Front springs are dangerous use a spring compressor and be careful.  

I had a set of leaf springs built at my local spring shop. I added a set of Caltracks. Wow they helped with traction, and they stop the rear from moving postion or break springs. With a 455 and cast iron heads, 3800lb street car, I have run 9.8 at 136mph on Nos, with 10 slicks, and no role bar. 1.51 60ft.

Now I have a 800hp pump gas motor with 400 shot Nos. Just changed over to a 9" with ladderbars.  

Considering the juice for my Ventura-10:90 All motor really prefer to start dialing it in.Shifting at 5200 rpm Just click it in drive and do a water burn out to heat em up.Footbrake car-I also had springs done by a competent shop,weld in frame connectors,slapper bars(already had them)9" Ford 3:90 gear Switching to 3:70 see if I can utilize some of that Poncho torque-
going to wait until I build another motor wih a good forged bottom end and some ALUMINUM heads (here we go again wih another forum on heads)tied rollcage into frame connectors,few more small improvements.I am confident I can knock 3-5 tenths off in due time.I still use the mechanical fan(a sin)full exhaust 4"