Rocker Arm Adjustment

Pman8 is correct the valve train should be replaced  Chances are any reading you get with dial indicator or any method will probably incorrect due to wear.
Cams need to be accompanied by springs and lifters(matched) in order to acheive full benefit of cam and also to last.  

Hmmmmmmm.........  

Ya it kind of sucks don't it.  
professional hi-performance engine builder

Horsepower sells engines and torque wins races

Sometimes  it costs money to learn-- we will all help you. Sometimes it only takes a little time-Slow down and choose carefully how and where you spend your money.
Going fast is cool(safely)  and having a well thought out build is the goal  dependability with a little need for speed inserted is what it is all about.Speed cost money how fast can we afford to go.  

Thanks every one for your input....slow is how I am taking it.  As a rookie I need the time to think about and absorb my options.  FYI, I did a close inspection of the lifters, and stuck my finger into the valve hole to feel the cam lobe and it all looks and feels smooth as a baby's bottom.  But I guess it is probably hard to tell acurately.  If I decide to replace the whole top end slow and steady is the key for me since I have never done that before.  My biggest hurdle is to figure out how to pull the engine (and remembering where everything was when it comes time to reassemble...lol!).  I have a friend who has a hoist I can use, so that will help.

In the mean time, as I think about what I should do,I am cleaning off the old gasket material to at least have that step completed.

Thanks again  

I have a cam that has .465 lift, what cam/spring/valve/lifter combination would you recomend to achive the best possible horspower for a SB 350 (it has also been bored .030 over)?  I have been looking at summit racing and there are so many combinations my head is spinning.  Should I get the valve seats ground too?  Any other recomendations?  

What is the casting numbers on the heads you are using.  
professional hi-performance engine builder

Horsepower sells engines and torque wins races

I am not sure of the exact number you are looking for so I have copied down all the numbers on the casting for you.

-8917291
-H47
-13
-GM27

Perhaps a lesson on what these numbers represent?  However I imagine the first number I put down is most likely the head serial number.  

Ok the casting number is most likely 3917291 instead of 8917291 and they are double hump heads used on 302,327 and 350 engines and do not have accessary holes and have 64cc chambers and were available with 1.94/1.50 or 2.02/1.60 valves and also have 64CC chambers.
From what I could see in the pics you also have dome pistons and it looks like it was running rich.
I would have the heads completely gone through and checked it looks like you have some rusty valves in the heads.  
professional hi-performance engine builder

Horsepower sells engines and torque wins races

Yup I double checked it does begin with a "3".

I just picked up the head from an engine shop and here is what they told me.  The springs are the wrong ones for the cam lift I have(465/the exiting springs are too weak),The retainers are a mish mash of different styles, and the keepers are not all the same style too, and the valve guides are worn.  You are correct in saying that some of the valves were rusty.  In fact it is the exhust valves, the intake valves were pretty carboned up on the top of the valve.  Parts and labour it is going to cost me about $1000cdn, so alas me thinks the car is going to be sitting for some time until I can come up with that amount of coin.  Any idea how much this would cost in the USA?  I go down to Phoenix and san diego a fair bit in the winter so I could drop them off there some place to get done if there is a big cost saving for me. I have to admit that I am very tempted to not machine the heads and just install the new components I need to get me running again, but my common sense is telling me different.


As far as the head that I have, is this a good head, or could I do better and why?

Regards!  

Yes it is a good set of heads but there is better and a lot better the double hump heads are a old design but were very highly sought after in there day and was pretty much untouchable back then.
The 1000 dollars is that just for the heads if so you can buy the remakes that summit racing sell for $650 and they have stainless steel valves and are basically the same as the 2.02 double hump heads but they have accessary holes.
I have used them on costumers engines and they work well.
P#SUM-152123.
I have no idea what they would charge you in phoenix.
Most of the time in my area its cheaper to buy new and you don't have to worry about them being done right.  
professional hi-performance engine builder

Horsepower sells engines and torque wins races

Yes that almost sounds like it is the way to proceed, but what does this mean in the nptes at the bottom of the information page, "Machine work must be done to accommodate guideplates"?

If I went this route, this would get me up and running in no time.  But I assume that you do not recomend just buying the valve spring and retainer kit(SUM-174000) and new valve guides and then just instaling them myself on my current heads without doing any of the machining?  That cost is only $70 for the kit and another 70 for the guides.

The price I was quoted is for parts and labour.  But if I can get the heads from summit then that would save me 300 bucks, and better in my pocket than some one elses.

Oh, and what are the accessory holes for?  Would this set up work well with my cam (.456 lift)?  Would I be able to use my current rocker arms for this set up?  

Oh, and can I reuse my lifters too?  

Ok you have to machine the rocker arm stud bosses for guide plates if you deside to use guide plates but the guide plates are not needed.
Does the heads that's on it now have guide plates.
No I would not recommend doing that with out doing the proper machine work you would be just wasting your money.
The accessory holes are for ac and alternator and power steering brackets to bolt too.
Yes the rockers should be fine.
If you are sure that the cam and lifters are not prematurely worn or damaged then yes but hopefully you kept the lifters in order so they go back on the same lobe they came from.  
professional hi-performance engine builder

Horsepower sells engines and torque wins races

Hi,
I did not know what you ment by guide plates, LOL, so I had to research it, but now I know!  Guide plates sound like a good idea as far as precision goes.  The current head does not have guide plates, but if i decide to buy the heads from Summit I may look into it to see if they can add those on for me at a minimal cost.

Before I took the head apart I did a lot of research and found out the importance of keeping all the parts in order so I was very anal about keeping every thing in order.  I had a very good look at the lifters and they are as smooth as a baby's bottom.  I also looked down the lifter holes at the cam and though difficult I took my time and moved the cam to different positions and using my finger felt for imperfections, and it too felt very smooth.  Correct me if I am wrong, but the engine shop I had the head in to also told me that if there was premature wearing on the cam I would see it right away on the lifters??

I have one other question in regards to the heads.  They talk about a 72cc chamber and an 165cc intake runner.  What are these chambers and runners and what do these numbers mean and the size do?  Is a larger number in these areas better?  I assume so because the price goes up with larger chambers and runners.