Adjustable rocker arms

Hi all. I am doing my first cam install on a 67 gto 400, 670 heads. I am looking at the instructions that came with my cam (Lun-0072LK) and it is talking about adjustable and non-adjustable rocker arms. I believe I have adjustable rocker arms and from my understanding and can set the push rods to zero lash, is this correct?
The bolts that hold the rockers to the studs have a 5/8 socket with a hole for an Allen wrench in the center. I am assuming these are adjustable, but I don't know for sure.
Any help is greatly appreciated.  

Yes the nuts with the allen set screw is adjustable.
Are you using roller rockers?
When you adjust the valves to zero clearance you will need to give them a additional 1/4 turn for pre load.  
professional hi-performance engine builder

Horsepower sells engines and torque wins races

.  

I am not using roller rockers. Thanks for the info. Once I take it to zero clearance with the socket then what are the set screws for and should i mess with them?  

You only adjust the valve lash when a valve is closed.  A good way to do this is turn the engine over until the tic mark on the harmonic balancer lines up with the 0* mark on the timing tag on the timing cover.  Turn the engine over by hand to get it lined up.  This is much easier to do with all the spark plugs removed.  At that point, either the piston in the #1 cylinder bore is at top dead center (TDC) with both valves closed (#1 firing position), or the piston in the #6 cylinder bore is at TDC with both valves closed (#6 firing position).  If both of the #1 cylinder valves are closed - #1 postition, if both of the #6 valves are closed - #6 firing position.

In the #1 firing position you can adjust these valves: Exhaust for - 1, 3, 4, 8, and intake 1, 2, 5, 7.  In the #6 firing position, adjust these valves: exhaust - 2, 5, 6, 7, and intake 3, 4, 6, 8.  Turn the engine 360* to achieve either the #1 firing position or the #6 firing position.

To adjust the valves, tighten to 0 lash, meaning there is no play in the push rods, then tighten another 1/4 (90*) turn.  Then, tighten up the allen head set screw while holding the nut in place.  
1969 GTO, YS code 400, 350hp/445 ft lbs of torque (stock specs), LT headers, H-pipe, 750 Holley 4160, Ignitor II ignition.  Complete Painless wiring.

Thanks. The info is very helpful. If any thing else that comes to mind I'm all ears.  

Lets see, you're doing a cam install...  Make sure you're installing new lifters with that new cam.  Follow the instructions about assembly lube and break in procedure and changing the oil after.  Make sure the push rod tubes are hollow and not filled with any gunk.  You can clean them out with compressed air if necessary.  Also, it's a good idea to make sure everything (push rods, rockers, rocker nuts, etc..) goes back where it came from.  Lots of those components are wear mated parts.   You should be good to go my friend.  
1969 GTO, YS code 400, 350hp/445 ft lbs of torque (stock specs), LT headers, H-pipe, 750 Holley 4160, Ignitor II ignition.  Complete Painless wiring.

i never said that you are using roller rockers... i was trying to get across the weirdness of poly locks...

sorry if i confused you...

here are some articles with pictures..

http://www.pontiacstreetperformance.com/psp/rockers.html

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0303_setting_valves_info/index.html

http://www.pontiacpower.com/faqs6.htm

http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/_res/pdf/MagazineArticles/StreetRodder_350290CrateCreationsPt3.pdf

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Instructions/Files/COMP4-118.pdf

http://www.worldperformance.com/Technical/Instructions/Files/151.pdf


these will give you enough inside to do the job properly...

best of luck/...  

Thanks everyone for the help.
Does any one know where I can get a oil pump primer rod? Are there any local stores (Autozone, Murray's, Napa, etc) that carry them or do I need to go on-line? The car has been sitting for about 3 weeks since I only have weekends to work on it.
I'm almost done, can't wait to fire this thing!  

If it only sat for 3 weeks I wouldn't worry too much about priming the engine before starting.  It might be a good idea to disable the ignition and crank the engine a couple revolutions to build up some oil pressure prior to starting.  
1969 GTO, YS code 400, 350hp/445 ft lbs of torque (stock specs), LT headers, H-pipe, 750 Holley 4160, Ignitor II ignition.  Complete Painless wiring.