ground wire

I got a newbie question and I hope someone can help.
What is the ohm reading, on the 200 scale (not 200K), from the breaker plate to the battery negative post suppose to be? I pulled the distributor cap and noticed I have no ground wire in my distributor. The readings are fluctuating in the range of 011 to 003 ohms. Is this normal? If I need a ground wire in the distributor where does it go?

Thanks  

If you have the vacuum advance type of distributor the plate moves. So it's not going to be 0 ohms unless you install a flexible jumper to the housing. The path you are using clear to the battery is the long way around. Just check to the housing or the block. Some GM distributors did have the jumper. Are you having some problem with ignition??  

I have attempted to install a PerTronix II ignition system in my car (67 GTO) but it won't fire. I was told, per PerTronix, there has to be less than 002 ohms at the breaker plate. It's hard to believe the tolerances are that tight.
The only way I can get below 002 ohms is going from the breaker  plate to the - terminal on battery, the ground screw on the block or the chassis.
If I put my points in the car it fire's up no problem.
I'm thinking about keeping my stock points ???  

You can easliy install a little stranded wire from the points plate to housing or drill a small hole an go to the ground strap connection point. Just make sure it's out of the way from the vacuum advance. I'm surprised they didn't include this in the kit. Love my HEI.  

you can make a ground wire like the above reply said.. i have made dozens over the years...

the actual part number is  ACDelco Part # C1203       it goes from the screw that holds the breaker plate base to the distributer housing..  to one of the screws that held down the points..  or the screw that holds down the igniter module..

why is this important..  and how does it work...    

ever try to hook up a light bulb with only one wire...   it does not work...  you have to have a complete circuit..

when the points close...   the primary windings in the ignition coil are grounded and power flows into them from the ground side...  ( electrons flow from negative to positive..)    this builds up a magnetic field in the primary windings..  

when the points open..   the circuit is broken...  the magnetic field collapses.. the magnetic fields are extended through the secondary windings..  this collapse creates the high voltage spark.....  

the high voltage spark flows from the coil high tension terminal.. through the coil wire.. into the center of the cap.. across the rotor... jumps a gap to the cap terminals...  down the spark plug wire to the spark plug.. jumps a gap to ground there.. but continues through the heads.. into the block.. through (usually the distributer hold down clamp.. and back to the distributer...

the breaker plate rides on bearings.. is pulled by the vacuum advance lever...  so.. without the ground strap.. there is only a partial ground to the upper breaker plate... so there is not enough ground to properly charge the ignition coil...

its worse with electronic ignition...    the power wire to the module is only to power the transistor and the circuits..  the ignition module makes and breaks the ground to control the coil...    no ground on the breaker plate..   no way to charge the coil primary..

loose worn out points hold down screws can also effect the ground.. as there is a lot of current passing through the ground side..

the reason you need stranded or what i use superflex test lead wire...  the breaker plate moves with the vacuum advance..

the wire has to be able to flex... and not restrict the movement of the breaker plate...