Need Header Advice

I found out my headers were rotted, so I need to replace them. They are the only thing left to do before putting my engine back in. The car is an 80 Trans Am and will temporarily have a 350 while I rebuild my 400, so I'm really looking for a header for the 400 what do you recommend? My price limit is about $300.  

OK 66 views and still no answers, maybe I left out some info. Im asking because I want to know what size primary tube is the right size for a 400 to breathe well, and which headers fit well bewcause I feel like it defeats the purpose of installing them if you have to smash the tubes.  

don't forget ... some of those views are robots checking up... i have found brand new posts on google within minutes...

there are a lot of people here ... but.. most are looking for info like you...

have you checked with the various parts suppliers listed in the magazine????  there are so many options... and you have a pontiac motor..

try this link

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Exhaust/Part-Type/Headers/Year/1980/Make/PONTIAC/Model/FIREBIRD/Engine-Type/V8/Engine-Size/6-6L-400/Engine-Family/Pontiac-V8/?Ns=Rank%7cAsc


OH... and before trying to install headers on a car...  one might really try to get the measurement between the upper control arm mounting brackets...    there is a problem called crossmember sag.. this is caused by the continuous loads created by the suspension on the crossmember...   just think... the lower control arms are mounted to the bottom of the crossmember... the upper control arms are mounted to the top of the frame.. this puts a tremendous load on the crossmember..  in my 66 gto... the frame was over an inch and a half too narrow...    it only took an hour for the frame shop guy to fix it..   and since i am a professional mechanic.. he showed me how to do it..   but you have to have a frame dimension chart... there is at least one guy on Ebay selling them for 5 whole bucks...   to do it your self.. you need a bunch of not in the normal tools...    some frame pulling chains... a jacking beam.. a 20 or 30 ton bottle ***  a wheel alignment gauge...  along with jack stands and a floor ***  this is better than a port a power between the upper control arms..  as both sides may be bent different amounts... and you can position the bottle jack off center to open one side more than the other..

you can tell if your crossmember has sagged also.. when you try to put in the motor mount cross bolts... do they line up exactly... or do you have to use a big pry bar to lever the motor mount over..  

The billions of options for headers is what has me confused to be honest. There's so many that I just don't know which to choose, am I being a fool for going and buying a name brand header like Hooker or Hedman or can I get the same results from Black Jacks or Flotechs, and what size primary tube is too big I don't want to kill torque but at the same time I don't want to choke the engine either. Just totally confused. As far as frame sag I think my frame maybe fairly tweeked I went to replace my sway bar mounts and nothing lined up it was a battle, not to mention my headers never fit right but they were Black Jacks. Where did you go to get the frame checked was it a collision shop? Also about how much should I expect to spend on it because I would definitely like to get that done. My car has leaned to the drivers side since I bought it and Ive replaced both the front and rear springs and it still didn't help.  

pick out some headers that are affordable... find the manufacturers catalog..  read what they say about them...  there is usually a bit more info in the manufacturers catalog..

as for the frame sag... the frame shop i took mine to was a shop that only worked for other shops and insurance companies..  he repaired damage caused by improper repairs...  he has past away... and there are few like him...

i don't remember the dimension between the upper control arm mounts...

i would also take a close look at the suspension bushings.. make sure that the lower ones are not worn or torn allowing the suspension to drop... it will make a huge difference...

you really need to find a good frame shop that knows older cars... you can ask your local repair shops who the best frame shop is ...  i am in los angeles and there are tons of body shops... and only a few dozen really good frame shops...    

how i do it..  i set the caster to equal settings on both sides... with a minimum of two, one eighth thick shims behind each side of the upper control arms... i don't worry about the camber.. i am going to bend the frame with  the jack to bring it back to where it should be...       i measure the camber on each side and write it down on the floor or frame rack...

i then jack up the car so the front wheels are about a foot and a half up ...  i measure the camber again.. and write this down next to the other numbers...    support it well on jack stands away from the work area...

next... i place a frame pulling chain up the outside of the frame infront of the upper control arm... around behind it.. out over the top of the frame behind the control arm...    i make a nice large loop with the chain..   i do the other side... then slide a jacking beam through the loops...   i place my 20 ton bottle jack on top of the jacking beam..  if one side needs to be bent more than the other.. i move it closer to that side...   i can then place a small thick plate of steel on top of my jack..  and start to jack..   i watch the suspension camber measurements.. i want to move them enough to take the first set of readings close to the proper camber specs...    not the second set of readings.. the first..    don't forget that you have to let the pressure off to take the readings...    you will be amazed at how easy this actually is...   its just having the right tools for the job..  its also easy to screw up...   you have to make sure that the chain does not contact the upper control arm.. or smash the brake lines...  you also have to make sure that you don't jack too far and bend it outward... it might end up looking like a sprint cup car with huge amount of tire sticking out at the top...   not a good thing for a street car...

start with a frame dimension chart... see if you can measure the frame...  you can use welding rod from the top hung from a 2x4 across the fenders with the hood open..    you may have to bend the welding rod to get around stuff... but when you ***  you can then get a really good measurement..  if you have the motor out...  you can measure it in seconds..


here is a really good picture of how to set it up on a frame rack...

http://www.567chevyclub.com/images/56_Chevy/Crossmember-sag.jpg  

It's not that you are being ignored it's that this header topic has been discussed and answered several times. Run through the forums section and you will find all kinds of answers.I have a set of Hedmans that have been on for many years. Bought them bare and had them coated after fitting them. never had a issue so far.  

1-3/4" are the best choice for a Pontiac 400. They work well with 300 – 550hp combinations. Do not buy a 3 tube header.

Headman and Hooker are the best choices for quality vrs price. Bargain brands a cheap for a reason. Headers take extreme punishment. Bargain brands have thin head flanges that warp very easy, and the tube also separate from the flange.

Use quality Fel Pro gaskets and not the paper ones that come with it. Or you will forever have major header leaks.

1-3/” Headman’s bolt in with no clearance issue other then cutting down the extended thread on the passenger side rear lower control arm bolt.

Do not buy headers with factory ceramic coating as the coating is very poor and thin and burns off right away.

Headers that are not coated can rust out within 5 years. As soon as you can afford to have your headers ceramic coated, do it. They look better, less heat issue for the starter, make more power, and last forever. I used a set for 15 years and after some scrubbing and hand polishing they looked so good, I sold them used with 70,000miles on them for what I originally paid to buy them and coat them.  

Thank you so much for the answer Ive been reading every ones posts all day trying to figure out what I want to do. I was thinking is it worth getting them powder coated I know I can afford that right away and I kind of like the idea of them being black.  

make sure the powder coating can take the heat.