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Rebuild for a 74 Pontiac 400ci
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Posted: 12/19/11 12:26 PM
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So this is rebuild number 2 for my Pontiac 400. I was on the autobahn in germany doing about 120 and i looked back to see smoke pouring out. When i stopped i found oil covering like my entire motor, coming from the oil dip stick tube. So i believe i punched a hole in a piston or threw a ring.
I'm Working with a 400ci 74 pontiac that is not bored. A set of #13 Automatic transmition heads that i never did any work on. A Luniti bracket master 2 cam
Cam Style Hydraulic flat tappet Basic Operating RPM Range 1,800-5,800 Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 230 Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 230 Duration at 050 inch Lift 230 int./230 exh. Advertised Intake Duration 292 Advertised Exhaust Duration 292 Advertised Duration 292 int./292 exh. Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.490 in. Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.490 in. Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.490 int./0.490 exh. Lobe Separation (degrees) 110
On top of that i have a edelbrock Intake Manifold, Performer, Dual Plane, Aluminum, Natural, Square/Spread Bore Flange. With a 750 CFM Edelbrock Carb. And im running that all on a MSD 6al2 box with a mechanical advanced distributor.
For the transmition im running a TH350 transmition with all racing bands and clutches, and it has a 2300 rpm stall converter. With that i had the rear end changed to 3:42 and true posi 10 bolt.
So im wondering with this next rebuild what is going to give me the biggest bang for my buck. I never matched my heads with my cam is there a better way to do that, or do i need a diffrent cam? Also should i bore the block and get some better pistons? Let me know anything you guys have in mind. Thanks
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Posted: 12/19/11 01:04 PM
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if the block needs to be bored then yes and with the 72Cc #13 heads you will want to use dish top pistons to lower the CR to 9.5:1 max for premium pump gas.
Horsepower sells engines and torque wins races


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Posted: 12/19/11 01:08 PM
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I think you have told me to do this same thing about 3 times now, and i think im finally listening lol. Is there any other things i can look into? How do i match the Heads to my cam?
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Posted: 12/19/11 01:45 PM
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Are the heads ported. What else has been done to them.
Horsepower sells engines and torque wins races


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Posted: 12/19/11 01:57 PM
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I believe they are completely stock, I never messed with them when i got them.
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Posted: 12/19/11 02:18 PM
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Just a thought here, depending on the overall height of the tires (I used 26" for my calculations) and the amount of top-end converter slippage, sustained speeds of 120mph would translate to between 5000 and 5500 rpm. That's a lot of revs to be running at for any length of time. You are right on the limit for a stock rod 400. If you were planning on running high speeds on a regular basis, I would suggest three options: taller rearend gears, an overdrive trans or lightweight pistons and aftermarket rods. Sooner or later you will be bringing your stock rods home in a basket! Steve
A little help... 'cause we don't all have to learn the hard way!
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Posted: 12/19/11 02:29 PM
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No it was a 1 time thing. And i didnt sustain the speed for very long maybe a few seconds.. Its a stoplight brawler, and i want to bring it to the strip occasionally.
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Posted: 12/19/11 02:32 PM
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So if i bore the 400 .030 over, buy a good set of dish top pistons. What do i need to do with the heads and cam to make some pretty awesome power? I put up 250 on a portable rear wheel dino, i would like to put more near to 350-400. And ive never been on a drag strip yet, but i would like to run in the 12s - 11s. Or maybe do i need to invest in a lighter car lol..
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Posted: 12/19/11 03:00 PM
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If budget allows I would have a good port job done on the #13 heads or by a pair of edelbrock heads.
Horsepower sells engines and torque wins races


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Posted: 12/19/11 03:14 PM
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So I get the port job done what else do i need to do to get that cam to match up, do I need valves, springs, lifters? Do the heads need to be polished or shaved? And what type of pistons should i buy?
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Posted: 12/19/11 03:27 PM
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Just a good port job and a good 3-5 ANGLE valve job. You should always use the recommended valve springs for the cam being used. I would go with a different cam.
Horsepower sells engines and torque wins races


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Posted: 12/19/11 03:29 PM
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what kind of cam?
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CarlosCJ3B
Enthusiast
| Posts: 297
| Joined: 10/11
Posted: 12/19/11 07:53 PM
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Good Luck, this is the never ending question. See my solid cams post.
I still haven't really gotten a good comparison side by side of a solid flat, hydraulic, and hydraulic roller.
First of all, what is the overall budget, willing to pay for a set of edelbrock or kaufman heads $2,000 +, willing to spend $1,000 + on a cam and lifter kit, forged rods, $500 - 750. Remember, sky's the limit, you may need to give the professional builders a little more to work with in terms of total budget.
I tried to convince my builder to go lower compression (6x heads I already had, I could not afford aluminum), but he was determined to get high compression heads to make more power. He said he'll give me a "good deal" $300 for the cores, plus about another $900 for machine work and parts. So, if you start with high compression heads like me and have to dish pistons (I have not dished, builder says he can make it work, we'll see?) not sure how much that costs?
Also, in my post I was told to not bother porting. This is usually a another $350 - 600 job. So, total in heads is about $1500 bucks! If you arent aware, if you run aluminum heads you will not need to dish pistons to lower compression due to the amount of heat the aluminum heads give up.
So, my recommendations is like most other common builds, .030 over, 6x 4 heads, forged pistons, reconditioned or new rods, and a CUSTOM CAM, not sure specs, but if you want to spend $800 MORE for a hyd roller, it may be better? Not sure what lobe seperation is best, but if you want a rumpy idle a 106 - 110 should work.
Hope this helps.
Carlos 70 Lemans(GTO Clone),406,Solid Cam 218 single pattern, 105 LSA Serious Hobbyist
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Posted: 12/20/11 08:04 AM
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rustyskills: So I get the port job done what else do i need to do to get that cam to match up, do I need valves, springs, lifters? Do the heads need to be polished or shaved? And what type of pistons should i buy?
On the pistons I like Keith black but any brand will due as long as you use the proper dish size.
Horsepower sells engines and torque wins races


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Posted: 12/20/11 08:08 AM
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http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2355&gid=297
This is the cam I would go with.
Horsepower sells engines and torque wins races


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