Tightening front disc brakes

Hey guys I have a front disc brake conversion in my 65 Lemans,I havent had the opportunity to get it out to the street yet as I havent registered it yet.Any way I live in a mobile home park and have driven it around the park a couple times.I am experiencing the front brakes not releasing as I am driving.they seem to be getting tighter as I drive.AAAThe conversion is brand new.I had the front end jacked up and I tried to turn the front wheels and they were pretty tight.It felt like they were getting tighter the more I drove it.can anyone help with this problem?tHANK YOU ALL FOR ANY HELP.  
1965 Lemans 455 .030 over now 462 tripower 4sp comp cams roller.

have you tried opening the bleeder valves?  

if it releases the brakes then there may be a problem with the master cylinder.


if you give the wheel a spin by hand it should make about 1 revolution, give or take a little.

are you absolutely sure the wheel bearings are set properly, and not too tight?  

What rims are you using? Sounds like you maybe having clearnce problems with the rims now that you went to disc brakes. Does the tire spin freely if you jack it up and turn the tire?

Bob  

all good stuff above..

i have a few of my own..

who set the wheel bearing adjustment...

did they do it right .. just a fraction looser than touching..   did they use a cotter pin.. and a washer that had a key in it to fit into the groove in the spindle threads..

who poured in the brake fluid...   from what container???

take a look at the cap on the master cylinder.. pull the cap.. is the rubber inside all swollen up??? if so.. incorrect fluid was probably used ..

did you convert to a dual master cylinder???

can you pull it away from the booster face and insert some flat washers between the booster and the master so the push pin is not holding the master cylinder piston in..

if the master cylinder piston is depressed.  AT all.. it may not release the fluid allowing the brakes to release..

if the brakes are binding..   loosening a bleeder screw will tell you if the hydraulic system is holding too much pressure for the calipers to retract.. they are ONLY retracted by the grip of the rubber seal on the sides of the piston..  

Was the proportioning valve replaced with the brake swap? If the drum proportioning valve is still in place, then you have your problem. Drum brakes had residual pressure valve to speed up the reaction of the front drum brakes. Whose kit did you use?
Steve  
A little help... 'cause we don't all have to learn the hard way!

id use the correct proportioning valve & master cylinder for your conversion too.  thats the first thing that popped up in my mind.  i can usually tell a sticking caliper at higher speeds, cause the car will pull to that side a little & you can usually smell the brake liners burning when you get out of the car.  

Thanks to all who responded to my problem,the adjustment rod from the brake pedal to booster was too tight,I loosened the rod about 3/8 of an inch and the problem is solved.both front wheels turn normal and all is well.Thank you all for the help.  
1965 Lemans 455 .030 over now 462 tripower 4sp comp cams roller.