need distributor(455 sleeper)mine is junk

anyone got a point type distributor for sale?
i started taking mine apart to clean and rebuild, it is junk.
i know i can buy a hei for under 100.00, but i would like a point type.
anyone upgraded to something better and might have a old point type around?
thanks        low buck sleeper  

through your local AZ or other parts store..

Cardone Reman/Distributor   point type....
For your 1971 Pontiac Lemans 7.5L 4BL OHV 8cyl
Part Number: 30-1851
Warranty: Limited Lifetime
Notes: With aluminum distributor. With single vacuum.
Price: $49.99

this is a generic rebuild...  

there is a huge trick about getting distributers apart..

when you knock the drive gear pin out... the gear off....  file the sides of the hole in the shaft to remove BURRS... so they don't tear up the bushings as you work the shaft out..

second ...

turn the housing bottom up.... fill the end of the housing with brake cleaner spray...  then start twisting and pulling then pushing the shaft back in when it won't come out farther.. DO NOT let it get stuck part way out...

working it farther out by twisting and pulling farther and farther will remove the sludge and varnish that is preventing easy extraction of the shaft..

if you have the original distributer for you application.. don't turn it in right away as a core...

you will want to compare the curve... and the vacuum advance amount stamped into the vacuum advance mounting bracket...


i have a pontiac transistor ignition distributer kicking around here someplace... and the ignition box to go with it.. somebody had dug into my box of distributers a while back.. needed a poncho drive gear... grabbed the drive gear off it... the only gear i told them they could NOT have..

this is what it looks like if it were complete..

 

thanks i will research cardone.  

Look on e-Bay, I just bought a nice 1964 iron unit.. I like the 63-64 B body distributors, the mechanical is pre-set for 20 degrees, perfect...

I also picked up a couple sets of Accel #8101 24 oz points from the seventies, that were never opened..

I think the trick to points systems is adjusting voltage output at the regulator, keep it right under 14 volts and use a stock Delco coil.. I like Packard 440 solid core wires with resisiter plugs...  

i found a good uses for the old points dist. the top bushing is almost always good i use it to replace the worn bottom bushing in hei distributors.

buzzin you got it runnin yet? one thing is for sure your amc has the hart of a warrior!  
76 455/4spd TRANS AM
69 GRAND PRIX 406/5SPD

pitts64:
Look on e-Bay, I just bought a nice 1964 iron unit.. I like the 63-64 B body distributors, the mechanical is pre-set for 20 degrees, perfect...

I also picked up a couple sets of Accel #8101 24 oz points from the seventies, that were never opened..

I think the trick to points systems is adjusting voltage output at the regulator, keep it right under 14 volts and use a stock Delco coil.. I like Packard 440 solid core wires with resisiter plugs...

Pitts
Your going back to the day...LOL... Packard 440 ignition wires were the best we could buy. Blue Streak ignition parts,cap rotor etc. When we ran a little B/Dragster or Digger. We bought the packard 440 wire in a spool. Then we custom fit the ends.

I just have a question. Not being that familar with the Pontiac point ignition system.
Do they use a resistor in the line to the distributor to drop the DC Voltage even lower.
I know on Chevy we use a resistor to drop the DC Voltage to around 12 or so volts, for the street. I ran battery voltage to the points on my race cars. But it would beat the points up. I would have to keep an eye on the dwell.

I'm just asking a question that's all. I don't want to start a range war. Please!
Thanks
Bob  

I just have a question. Not being that familar with the Pontiac point ignition system.
Do they use a resistor in the line to the distributor to drop the DC Voltage even lower.
I know on Chevy we use a resistor to drop the DC Voltage to around 12 or so volts, for the street. I ran battery voltage to the points on my race cars. But it would beat the points up. I would have to keep an eye on the dwell.

I'm just asking a question that's all. I don't want to start a range war. Please!  
Thanks
Bob  

bob... on pontiacs that have points...  in the wiring diagrams i have studied in detail... pontiacs do it differently..

they use both the IGN1 and IGN2 terminals on the ignition switch to power the ignition coil

this makes it harder to bypass the resistor...

and you are going what the heck is IGN2.. as its NOT on most ignition switches now a days..

run position.. IGN1 runs to the bulk head connector and usually to things like the wiper motor or voltage regulator circuit...  but its a double wire into the engine side of the bulk head connector and the wire on the IGN1 under the hood is a resistor wire...

in the cranking position.. the IGN 1 contacts inside the ignition switch OPEN... so there is no feed back through the resistor..


CRANKING position.. the IGN 2 circuit is hot.. it is the SAME as running it up from the starter solenoid R position..  except NO resistor..  it also runs to the coil... in parallel with the IGN1 wire..

during the RUN position.. there is reduced  voltage coming back on the IGN2 circuit.. but the contacts inside the ignition switch are open except in the RUN position..

i have not studied the other GM brands wiring diagrams in detail enough but i suspect they are wired like the pontiac versions....  buick.. olds ,, caddy..

the pontiac F bodies are wired like the chevy F bodies  as far as i can tell in the first gen F body cars..

hope this answers your question...


this is part of a 68 gto wiring diagram the YELLOW WIRE IS IGN 2... this drawing is for conversion to an HEI..   as there are things running on IGN1 pink wire under the dash and out the front side of the bulk head connector..

 

look at the later ignition to convert point type ignition switches with HEI or electronic ignition systems..




lets take a look at the key on column ignitions switches.

this is the LS309. used on tilt columns up through the 94 year model on some applications these are also used in other brands of cars... as gm sold tilt columns to a chrysler.. and jeep also



the IGN2 is missing from these later applications..

ign 1 gets power in the RUN and the CRANK position...

B1 and B2 are power into the switch for S1 and i1.. and A.


B3 feeds only i3... when the switch is in the RUN position.

the G1 And G2 connect during cranking to the metal bracket and ground.. this drags the wiring to them to ground.. this is used as a bulb check for the  oil pressure light and the temp light..  

Hi Bob,
I'm too old to start wars, even on the internet, lol....

Pontiac ran two circuits from the ignition switch, one from the start position that sent full voltage to the coil and the second from the run position, that used a resister wire that stepped the voltage down to around 10 volts or so..

However, there is another resister wire, that's the wire from the points to the body of the distributor..

What I like about the points system is it's simplicity and ease of repair.. It doesn't take much to light off (inozation)one of these old motors. I think people would better serve themselves to take the time and study how these systems work.. There very efficient and do a great job.. However, they don't last 50,000 miles without maintenance as per the 1975 EPA mandate, hence HEI....  

i bought a junkyard hei for 25.00.
then new coil cap and rotar and wires 55.00.
the car i am putting this in did have resistance to the coil after startup.
i will be bypassing this and sending full voltage to the hei.
thanks
ps how about some recomondations on springs for the advance?  

ps how about some recomondations on springs for the advance?  

get it running first.... don't mess with the advance curve yet..

there are a LOT of variables on the advance needs of the engine for max power...

the faster the pistons go up and down.. the earlier the spark needs to be produced to create the maximum pressure as the piston gets to the top of the stroke... so the expanding explosion is not chasing the piston down but pushing it down...

the amount of manifold vacuum and load on the engine also change the amount of advance needed...  changes in air volume/pressure change the speed of the expanding flame front..

combustion chamber shape... spark plug location.. piston top shape... all effect the speed/expansion of the flame front..

when the spark is generated and ignites the fuel mixture.. it starts as a tiny flame and expands..

if you light it too early... you will have too much expansion before the piston gets to the top and it will hammer on the piston as the inertia of the rotating crank and the angle of the connecting rod pushing it up overpower the expanding flame front..  this is what causes the pinging noises... as the piston rocks in the bore..

if you look in an older service manual... you will find that they list a bunch of different mechanical advance beginning and ending speed numbers and vacuum advance begins and stops for the vacuum advances..  there is also how much they move...

there is NO way to tell how much your engine needs just by asking ...  

installing a detonation/knock sensor on the coolant drain plug if there is room on the lower side of the block is one way to tell...     knock sensor displays are available to mount in a gauge pod..
an article on just one of the several versions available in a different magazine on this site..

http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/0703_turp_knock_sensor_monitor/




 

click on the link above the knock sensor image above to read the article..  

Thanks Wayne and Pitts64. I really appreciate the information. Pitts I'm too old for wars myself.
Thanks again
Bob  

 
When The Flag Drops,,,



The Bull Chit Stops,,,


P. Engineer, Engine Builder