http://i799.photobucket.com/albums/yy280/akpd/restoration/DSCF0004_zpsa4e48f05.jpgHey guys, first time restoration for me. I have replaced some steel around windshield & rear window, I can't put a light behind the repair to check for any pin holes.I looked at a epoxy type product that has a powdered aluminum blended in it, my thought was to put a thin coat of this stuff to be make sure any pin hole would be sealed. Would a couple of good coats of epoxy primmer be just as good? I have put a lot of work into these repaired areas and want it to last. Another question, is if best to just sand off all the exterior paint down to bare metal or have it soda blasted. I'm for sure having the following soda blasted.Complete interiorFirewall/cowlDoor jamsTrunkWindshield & rear window perimeterUnder car after all undercoating is removed Thanks PD
Restoring 68 Bird (coupe)
You'll be fine with a little wipe of bodyfiller there. No need for a specialty filler. If pinholes exist you'll find them when you prime it. If you can't get anything to the back side you've already done all you can. Look into an internal panel coating with a spray wand that might help with corrosion protection after paint work is done. If you're having the areas listed soda blasted, by all means take the exterior paint off also.
just beware soda blasting requires a vinegar and water bath before anything will stick to the metal. charcoal blasting does not if you can find anybody that uses charcoal to blast.
76 455/4spd TRANS AM69 GRAND PRIX 455/5SPD
I ran across a cat in the grocery store this week who I did bodywork for, on a black low miles 63 Impala. "Hey you may not remember me but ..." yeah I did. He had the only car I've ever worked on that was soda blasted. Thorough sanding after blasting is something I personally prefer to do, and I'm pretty sure all I did to that car ten years ago was sand with 80 grit. The guy wanted me to know it still looks great. So it hasn't fallen off without a neutralizing rinse but that may be a good tip Rowsley has because of acids and bases and all that. If bare steel is properly cleaned, it has has been scrubbed with soapy water then promptly dried and cleaned again with solvent. Not much makes it past that, to keep paint from sticking.My opinion may not be the popular one, but I say sand everything and don't rely on blasting as final metal prep. Crushed walnut shells is a popular alternative and it causes no issues as far as I know. Soda blasting is extra gentle but the fine powder hangs in the air longer and creeps farther. Don't think you can keep it out by masking something, its a big mess. Masking will stop the blast but not the dust cloud.