Recently adjusted my valve lash and noticed a few were out of adjustment. (Can notice the cam quite a bit more now) With the hood up, I was listening to the motor and watching through the little area and seen the motor lift about 3 inches. Im bummed because i just replaced that motor mount last fall. I knew I heard something funny recently. I went with a poly tranny mount. My question is what do you guys think of the poly motor mounts? Apparently Energy suspension has this to say.. im not familiar with the clamshell concept. A true performance application component for cars, trucks, hot rods and racing/competition vehicles - yet designed to be also used for street vehicles!Soft-running enough to absorb vibrations for street use yet rugged for racing use.When required- a torque resistant "safety interlock" design is used that is comparable in strength to those too hard-running metal mounts!Replaces the original, short lived and typically too-soft rubber mounts and outdates those hard-running metal motor mounts.The popular "Early" style mounts for General Motors® vehicles are available in either zinc or chrome metal finishes.Made of HYPER-FLEX™ performance polyurethane.Resistant to under vehicle fluids such as: oils, coolants, road contaminants, etc.General Motors-The ever popular "Early Style" patented interlocking motor mounts (two sizes) for General Motors® muscle cars and hot rods are available in two metal finishes/plating: Zinc or Chrome plating.The "Clam Shell Style" installation procedure involves that the metal clam shell is separated, the new Energy Suspension polyurethane mount is placed between and the metal clam is reused. This procedure saves you money and gives both lasting performance and durability!
HelloMOTOR MOUNT - Is the set up below your currrent one? Are the mounts you are buying made in the US. If not you can get US made mounts from NAPA auto parts, they should hold hp unless you are power braking it then no dice, lol. You can also chain or turnbuckle the motor to the suspension with a little slack. Obviously the ones you mentioned will work but you will feel more vibration etc.1969 GTO resto in progress. '76 350+.060, #13 heads, 9.2:1 CR, Lunati cam, Edelbrock Performer, 750 Holley, HEI, Ram Air manifolds, 2 1/2" exhaust. TH400 trans w/shift kit and 2400 stall. 235/60/15 front, 275/60/15 rear on Rally II 15X7s. GM 12 bolt posi with 3.73's.LIFTER NOISE - Did I tell you about this before in another post? Comps are marginal. If you have comps they adjust at 1/2 turn not 1 turn or they may tick. If you have push in studs with a big cam and/or heavy springs they are probably pulling out, check with straight edge across top of studs.
The noise I was hearing was the motor jumping and pulling the mount apart im not sure what they used for lifter so I went just under 3/4 turn. I dont think energy makes the mounts for the gto.. I remeber when I bought my tranny mount they were avalible. I dont want to visit this motor mount on a regular basis. I got the mount from autozone with a lifetime warranty. But worthless unless I want to change mounts one a month. Nice to hear about you 69!
Check with Ames Performance, I bought Mity Mount interlocking mounts for my 70 Tempest.Steve
A little help... 'cause we don't all have to learn the hard way!
Im starting to thing its the frame stand thats messed up. Seems like the mount is resting on the frame with the motor mount intact. Thats a suck job. Changing that bracket. $90 for the pair.. and then when I drop the 455 I gotta change them again? (1970 455 block) how does the motor mount bolt lock into the frame bracket? I wonder if I could sleeve the bolt to make up the play/wear. Or mabey weld a sleve for the bolt. By design the frame bracket seem odd to me.
Just pulled the mount its ripped. I spoke with franks pontiac parts. He swore it wasn't the frame braket. Seems he was right. I cant belive the thing ripped that easy. Well the cam fuel 110 octane (just a few gallons mixed with 93) might of helped.lol
A driver wielding a healthy full frame Ponch and decent tires can pretty much rip a left mount at will. If theres any mounts that don't interlock, yeah you sure as hell don't want those! I have looked for urethane mounts for my 69 GP before and came up empty-handed. If you drive with one foot only (on an auto), rubber ones will live awhile. If, as mentioned earlier, you were to fabricate a torque travel limiting device which acts as a stop to prevent ripping the mount, your mounts might last for many years. Cables don't work for this, think chain or bar. I had a four speed Ventura whose Z-bar would hit the brake lines upon launch so I used an old distributor hold down bolted to a long strap (old A/C bracket) which was connected to the head. I hooked the dist clamp in a hole on the subframe and since it was bolted to the strap there was some adjustment. A piece of fuel hose went over the hook end so it didn't rattle. I was able to adjust that (with jack under engine) so that it made solid contact about halfway thru the flex range of the rubber mount. It was simple but effective and saved my mounts.
Good info on the motor travel stop idea! Nothing better than making your own parts outta stuff lying around. Well took the pass tire off to get to the mount. While there, noticed I could use some new disc brake pads. While I have the calipers off. Lets changs the wheels bearings . Do you see where this is heading? Sound familiar? Lol
I have Olds engine mounts on my 69 GTO they have a built in bracket so if they brake they won't come apart .I haven't broke one yet . I had the car from 01.You would need the mounts and the frame brackets .