Check the connecting rod side clearance before disassembly if not within specs new rods will be needed. The rod side clearance should be 0.006 - 0.014.
Mark the connecting rods with the number of the cylinder each rod came from so they can be properly identified.
Mark the main caps with a 1/4" stamping set 1-4 starting at the front and working your way to the back. There is no need to mark the rear main as it is easily identified. This needs to be done before disassembly!
Use a 7/16-14 tap to chase the threads in the block for the head bolts.
When reusing head bolts use a 7/16-14 die to clean the threads of the head bolts before installing them so that you will get a accurate toque reading.
Notice in the pic the polish on the cam bearings. (Just for reference)
Installing oil galley plugs front.
Put a few notches on the outer part of the oil galley hole to make sure the galley plug is secure and stays in place these notches will help lock it in place and keep it in the galley.
put #2 sealer on the threads of the rear oil galley plugs and install.
use #2 sealer on the top rear oil galley plug threads and install.
Checking the depth of the rear main oil galley plug. It should be 8-1/2 inches deep measuring from the top of the block as shown in pic.
Rear main oil galley location, This is the most forgotten oil galley plug.
Apply a thin flim of #2 sealer on the outer edge of the freeze plugs.
I use a 1-1/16" impact socket to drive the freeze plugs in and be sure that when you drive the plug in it is straight.
Rear main bearing top half the top half of the main bearings is identified by the oil hole in the bearing as well as the groove make sure the oil hole in the block lines up with the oil hole in the bearing.
One through four main bearing top half the grooved half with oil hole must be installed in the block for proper oiling of the crank.
Pictured above is a main bearing coated in a good quality assembly lube.
Be sure to coat all bearings with a good quality assembly lube to prevent dry start up.
Install crank carefully and put main caps in place in the correct order and facing the right direction with arrows to front of the engine.
Torqued down the main caps in 3 steps 30,50 and then 70 for a 2 bolt main and the inner bolts on 4bolt main blocks and on four bolt main blocks the outer main bolts will be final torqued to 65.
measuring crankshaft end play with feeler gauge. You want .002-.007 clearance.
Rub oil or assembly lube on the seal to ease installation and to keep the seal from being damaged during first start up. one piece rear main seal shown.
Use a good sealer like # 2 sealer to help seal the gasket to the rear main seal retainer on the one piece seal blocks.
Once the sealer has tacked up then put a light coat of sealer on the other side of the gasket let tack then install.
Rear main seal retainer installed and torque to 12 FTLBS.
Put oil or assembly lube on the cam bearing journals were arrows point.
Lube applied to the cam bearing journals. Apply moly grease to the cam lobes before installing camshaft.
Use a long stud or bolt or cam installation handle to assist with cam installation.
When sliding the cam into place be careful not to nick any of the cam bearings.
You should be able to spin the cam by hand once lubed and installed.
Use BLUE thread locker on the timing sprocket bolts. torque to 20-25ftlbs use new grade 8 bolts.
Bring the #1 piston to top dead center and line up the dots on the timing gears.
Once torqued to specs the timing chain should have very little to no give (slack). Apply assembly lube to the sprocket and chain as well. Be sure to use grade 8 bolts
While supporting the timing cover near the seal bore drive the old seal out with a hammer and punch or screw driver.
Clean the bore then apply a small amount of oil to the outer edge of the seal and drive the seal in squarely into the bore using a seal driver and a hammer be careful to not damage the seal in the process.
Use #2 sealer to tack the timing cover gasket to the timing cover. when sealer has tacked up apply a thin coat of sealer to the other side of the gasket as well and install torque to 6 ftlbs. use new grade5 bolts.
Use a piston to square up the piston ring in the bore before measuring the gap.
checking the compression ring gaps with feeler gage. You want .004 for every inch of bore for a stock to mild street engine and .005-.0055 for every inch of bore on a high performance street/strip naturally aspirated engine.
Use a new piston ring to measure the piston ring side clearance besure to throughly clean the piston ring grooves and piston rings as well as the oil holes too.
There should be .0015-.002 clearance for compression rings and .002 clearance on the oil rings.
Note rings need to be installed Dot or Marked Side up, otherwise ring is reversible.
Besure that the rings go in there proper ring groove top in the top groove and second in the second ring groove it is very important to install the rings in there proper groove.
the top ring is the one that's charged with the most responsibility of sealing the chamber. It's the ring that actually has contact with the explosion within the combustion chamber. The face of it, (the part that actually touches the cylinder wall), is barrel-faced and does little or no oil scraping. It actually has a slight convex shape to it to assure uniform cylinder wall contact throughout piston travel. There are several different material varieties of top rings used, in addition to different styles, but regardless of that, the overall job is to seal the chamber.
The next ring down, commonly referred to as the second ring, might be thought of as a secondary defense against combustion pressure. However, the face of a conventional second ring is tapered the wrong way to expect it to hold any pressure, and its only job is to scrape oil off the cylinder wall.
Installing piston rings and setting the gaps in the correct positions.
A-oil ring side rail gap lower
B-oil ring side rail gap upper
C-Top compression ring gap
D-second compression ring gap and oil ring spacer gap
Install oil ring spacer in the oil ring groove.
install oil ring rails do not use the piston ring installion tool on the oil ring.
Install the second and top rings in there proper grooves using the ring installation tools
Remove the cap from the rod. Never remove all the caps from the rods at the same time unless properly marked but is best to do one at a time.
Install to small lengths of 5/16 fuel line over the threads of the rod bolts.
Install the top half of bearing in the rod bore and apply assembly lube to the bearing.
Install piston in its proper cylinder and use piston ring compressor to compress the rings. besure the rings are completely compressed so they do not snag up on the top of the cylinder because if they do they could be damaged.
Use the handle of a hammer or piston installation tool either will do the same job and gently tap the piston into place making sure that the rod is engaging to the crank correctly.
Remove rubber hose lengths from rod bolts and then lube the bottom half of the bearing once installed in the cap and install the cap on the rod.
Lube up both top and bottom halves of the bearings before installation and then install the rod cap in the same position it was before removed (both bearing notches should be on the same side of the rod and bearing notches face out to the side of the block if cap is installed correctly) on the rod it came from do one at a time so that the caps do not get mixed up. Install nuts and torque to 45FTLBS for stock bolts. If after market bolts are being used then follow the manufacturers torque specs.
Here is a video as well to show the correct way to set the oil pump pickup clearance.
Use a straight edge across the top of the oil pan rails and with a measuring tape measure the depth of the oil pan once you get that measurement you will be able to set the oil pump screen to the correct depth.
Install the oil pump and measure from the oil pan rail on the block to the bottom of the oil pump screen and adjust as necessary you want 3/8 of a inch clearance from the bottom of the pickup screen to the bottom of the oil pan.
Once you have the correct oil pan to oil pump pickup screen clearance remove the oil pump and tack weld the oil pump pickup screen to the oil pump this is important because even though it is a tight pressed fit the pick up screen can work its way loose.
Install oil pump and torque the stud or bolt to 65 FTLBS
Lay a bead of #2 gasket sealer down on the oil pan mounting rail of the block and then place the oil pan gasket sides in place and allow sealer to tack up.
Put a bead of #2 sealer on the upper side of the front oil pan lip seal and press it in place on the channel of the timing cover.
Do the same for the rear oil pan lip seal and allow for the sealer to tack up.
Put a bead of #2 sealer on the other side of the oil pan gasket and lip seals and on the 4 corners were the lip seals meet the pan rail gasket then install the oil pan and torque the bolts to 7 FTLBS. Be sure to use grade 5 bolts or better.
Install the head gaskets making sure the gasket goes down on the dowel pins to hold in place.
Apply thread sealer to the threads of the head bolts so water will not creep up around the threads
Install head making sure it seats down on the dowel pins and install head bolts and torque to 60FTLBS in 3 steps 25,40,60.
See image below for proper sequence.
slide the push rods in to place and then install the rocker arm and pivot balls.
Then install the rocker arm nuts and adjust the valves lash as mentioned below.
1. Get #1 piston to compression TDC, Cam gear at 12 o'clock crank gear at 12 o'clock.
2. Adjust the intake valves on cylinders 1, 2, 5, & 7 by loosening the rocker nut until play is in the pushrod then just take the up and down play in the pushrod and tighten the rocker nut 90 degrees
3. Adjust the exhaust valves on 1, 3, 4, & 8 in the same manner.
4. Rotate crank 360 degrees to get cylinder #6 to compression TDC, Cam gear at 6 o'clock and crank gear at 12 o'clock.
5. Adjust the intake valves on 3, 4, 6, & 8 in mentioned manner
6. Adjust the exhaust valves on 2, 5, 6, & 7
Apply assembly lube to the fuel pump push rod before installing.
Gently slide the fuel pump push rod in the push rod hole.
Put #2 sealer on the fuel pump push rod cover put gasket in place put a thin coat of #2 sealer on the gasket let tack and install. use new grade 5 bolts and torque to 7 FTLBS.
Install oil filter adapater and torque to 5-7ftlbs. Make sure fiber disc is in place and not missing.
apply sealer to both sides of the valve cover gaskets and install the valve covers.
Torque the valve cover bolts to 3-4 ftlbs use grade 5 bolts.
Engine builder,self taught auto body guy.
Horsepower sells engines and torque wins races