I am replacing the leaf springs in my 78 TA, but I can not find any torque numbers for any of the bolts/nuts. And are you also suppose to keep the shackles loose til on the ground to tighten? Not a fun job especially with 35 yrs of rust and corrosion, but should ride better and not make so much racket down the road.
Yeah thats one area where "good-n-tight" would be the guideline. Somewhere in the 35-50 range would be my guess but I would do it by feel. And yes, let the car down and bounce it a few times, then tighten anything with a bushing in it. Anti sieze on threads is a good idea but keep it away from the sleeve and bushing.
a tip i got from the owner of hollywood frame and axle many years ago.(RIP) i always wanted to work for that guy.. he rolled his own.. springs that is. when a spring bolt or suspension bushing bolt is so rusted in.. put the NUT back on and use a torque wrench to tighten it to spec.. then use an Impact on the BOLT head to loosen it.. what.. the installed NUT will pinch the inner bushing sleeve tight so the bolt can spin without spinning the inner sleeve.. this sometimes has to be done several times..
unfortunately i got the bad side replaced. I have become quite close with my angle grinder since 35yrs of Minnesota rust and corrosion(Minnesota lock-tight) have played their game on the rear shackles. So far the rest of the bolts came out, knock on wood. Just have the passenger side left but i have found a broken shock bolt that someone so nicely left for me to drill out. My air shocks appear to be junk, they leak air faster than i can pump them up. I think I might have to put in some Monroe schocks(cheap) just til I can buy some better performance shocks. I did get my springs from Classic Ind. Is there a way to tell if these are Eaton's? I doubt I am that lucky.