Howdy folks. This is my first GTO project, as I recieved it just yesterday:I've been driving, maintaining, and modifying my own personal Pontiacs for over thirty years, but nobody has ever brought me a GTO to fix. Until now. And to be honest, I'm not up on the '65 models and can't say whether it actually this is or isn't a GTO, but somebody is finally paying me to help fix up a vintage Pontiac convertible. I started on it yesterday, and will play a small but significant role in the efforts to make this an award winning car for it's owner, and for the owner of the shop I work at, Gary. This is how it arrived:Heres whats under the hood:Heres a peek at the chassis. WAY too much to list, so study hard. Ask if you wanna.Before he took it off the frame, Mike tucked the bumper ends, all around-All I'm supposed to do at this point is take it from where its at, with a little fixing left to do here and there on the body, to final primer. Piece of cake. Not sure how involved we are gonna get with that custom interior, but we will paint it and get it back on the chassis and running at least, I believe.So I walk up to my first GTO job and first task is to cut up the dash! Ow. Shaved the speaker hole.Now I gotta go block the hell out of he rest of the car and get some good primer all over it! Wha'dya think?
Looking good so far.
Engine builder,self taught auto body guy.Horsepower sells engines and torque wins races
Perfect like always Matt. You don't have to ask us how your doing, you're teaching us HOW to do it. Keep the pics coming bud we're loving it. Maybe I can get ya to do my coach -Rob
might want to get that white masking tape off the top of the frame rails beside the bell housing before it sticks hard... and requires more work... replace it with some of that tacky backed plastic sheeting you have used before.. for protecting finish.. might even want to use some of that to completely wrap the engine and transmission.. just a thought.. looks like its on there to protect the probably powder coating on the frame..you might want to put layers of tape over the plastic film to allow it to be removed easily.. but the upper layers of tape to improve scratch through resistance.. even using a layer of aluminum foil duct tape as the top layer...i do realize that the guys working with the headers probably put that tape there..
Thanks, Pman, Rob. I've actually done two bomb squad trucks but never an RV. TQ'd that one you got is up there with train car painting! I'm just happy to have a job and excited that its a GTO right now. This car has already been in 3 or 4 shops, from what I hear. I also hear the owner is stopping by tomorrow. Thats good, I always like to talk the job over with the owner if I can.Wayne, that kind of masking tape pretty much went out along with cattle rustling, everybody has been using green for years. It has probably been on there for an untold number of years. The frame sat in the sun today, might have been a good time to peel all that. The old tan 3M tape had a solvent based glue whereas the newer tapes have water based. The old tape was more solvent resistant and less water resistant whereas now its the other way around. Can't get the new stuff wet. The old tape was better around wet sanding but the new is better around paint.The chassis has a spot to park indoors every night and it does, but its in the building where theres zero sanding and spraying and not much welding so no big worries about it getting too nasty. I'm sure that before the body goes back on, that the whole chassis will be detailed real nice. When we have something fresh, we do bag it like you said. I learned about using tinfoil for masking when we painted a firewall with almost everything still in place.I lied about one thing- the first thing I did to the car was to remove the fancy brake booster and steering column to keep them from harm while I welded up the dash. Thats a clutch slave cylinder mounted over the pedal. More old tape. I blocked out this fender today ... uh-oh. It had some large problems as you can see. I need to scoot down the whole side in the morning, so we can see how much more bad stuff is hiding. There sure is a lot of fill on the car though, and right now thats good. If you're saying to yourself "That fender didn't look that bad before" well thats what I said, too. But it has about a two foot long low spot right over the wheel. It aaalmost blocked out. Another guy at another place had blocked it out and primed what he thought were the problem areas. And like most folks (including myself) who came from crash repair backgrounds, the longest block he probably had was 18". And while thats fine for most things, when it comes to show paint on rough old cars, I reach for a LONG board or some tubing, to put my sandpaper on. A four foot section of white plastic plumbing pipe wrapped in 180 grit cannot tell a lie, and will find every wave on big flat areas. Thats what I used to find the problems on that fender that was already "almost ready to paint". I know if RumRunner reads this he will wonder what the red thing in the background is ... its a Factory Five Cobra, fresh off the truck.Last but not least, this one is for Pman- As far as I know- the story on it is that it was rolled over. Its a '55 small window but while fixing the rollover, the owner opted for a big window '57 cab they found. Two of our guys are fitting up the panels right now and I'd bet that I'll be doing the mud work on this baby after the GTO is done. How do ya like the brand on that front tire?
LOOKS LIKE SOMEBODY HAS SOME MONEY TO SPEND. SOUNDS LIKE YOU GOT A LITTLE HAPPY TO BE WORKING ON A PONTIAC. I'LL BE LOOKIN FOR IT IN HPP MAG NEXT YEAR. WHAT COLOR?? DO YOU KNOW ABOUT THE GALVANISED WINDSHIELD POSTS?MATT I MIGHT GO TO WHEATLAND MO FOR THE DRAG BOAT RACE ON SEPTEMBER FIRST THEN ON TO BRANSON FOR THE PONTIAC SHOW . SATURDAY NIGHT CRUISE AND DINNER SUNDAY SHOW. ALL DEPENDS ON HOW I FEEL AND THE WEATHER.
76 455/4spd TRANS AM69 GRAND PRIX 455/5SPD
Yep Rowsley all those bells and whistles gotta add up. I am kinda hankering to learn the details and future of it from the owner. Looks like a fun drive!On the windshield posts- I did notice that they are different. Looks like the actual post is covered by those galvanised panels. I will need to remove them to treat them properly, they just unscrew and pop off, right? Planning to use epoxy primer on them and treat them like the rest of the steel. Anything else I should know?I THINK- should confirm today- that its going to be white pearl with a blue top.Man that sounds like a good way to spend the weekend. I've been wondering what to do on that weekend and a Pontiac cruise sounds awesome if it doesn't totally gridlock Branson. Went there once for their big annual cruise and it was a giant parking lot. Thanks for the tip-off it sounds very interesting and weather might be perfect. Hope you feel good then, maybe this time I'll make the venture in one Ponch or the other.
Looks like you have a bunch of cool projects to keep busy.
It sure makes the day more pleasant, working on interesting vehicles!Owner came in and we talked. Four bodymen at three shops already took their best shot at it. Wow. All that BS stops right here because we have done this so many times before and know what to do to get it right. I'll show y'all later what I found when I blocked quickly down both sides, it don't look too good. But now the owner has seen how far we'll have to take it and he is prepared to pay the way. So it is ON, and its gonna be damn nice.The engine is a 467 built by Butler around 2005, dyno'ed about 535 HP. The Keisler is a 5 speed and the Strange rearend is like a 3.43 ratio.
ID what size white pipe do you use? Getting those ripples out is hard. That GTO guy is lucky to have you doing his car. The ones you do come out so smooth. Jim
Drive it before your dead!
SORRY MATT I MENT THE POST AND THE COWL PANEL WHERE IT MEETS THE FENDERS. ALWAYS SEEN THE PAINT POPIN OFF.
76 455/4spd TRANS AM69 GRAND PRIX 455/5SPD
Formulajim:ID what size white pipe do you use? Getting those ripples out is hard. That GTO guy is lucky to have you doing his car. The ones you do come out so smooth. JimThanks Jim. The results make a believer out of 'em. The latin words on my family crest say "The end crowns the work" so I come by it honestly.I'll get a pic of the pipe(s) I'm using today, totally spaced pics yesterday. The white long one is about 1" ID and is thick walled, doesn't bend and cannot tell a lie. The shorter black one is thin walled and can give just a little. I also use the cardboard tubes from the center or rolls of masking paper sometimes. Having different diameters around is helpful.
ROWSLEY:SORRY MATT I MENT THE POST AND THE COWL PANEL WHERE IT MEETS THE FENDERS. ALWAYS SEEN THE PAINT POPIN OFF.Sorry for what? Heck you gave me a good GTO tip Rowsley. Now I'm gonna check if the cowl is that way too. Probably gonna end up with all the galvanised coating sanded off anyway! Prep procedures are the same for galvanised but I will be sure to dot my i's and cross my t's when it comes time to apply coatings on those parts. The pillar pieces are screw-on covers but I tried pulling one off yesterday and concluded that they may have to be removed / installed with fenders off because of where they attach at the bottom. I'm sure Thumpin455 could enlighten me on that.
More pics-Heres the piece we were just talking about, I think. It really needs special attention as y'all can see:Jim, here is the pipe stash. Looks like the white one is regular hi-pressure 1" PVC pipe, about 37" long. The black one- um not sure, doesn't look like vinyl plumbing pipe, its very thin walled and straight and about 17" long. The cardboard ones with tape on them are from masking paper rolls. The board is the killer on big flat stuff like doors. The short blocks are ends of longer DuraBlocks that I cut off for tight area work. The 9" Hutchins hand file in the background is an amazing all-around tool, as well. Thats all Norton 180 grit sandpaper in the pic.End of today:The door. Man its very close to OK. Just a few small areas to fill. Also got the word that we will be installing the flush mount billet door handles and shaving the lock cylinders. I got going on the quarter panel, too. Both quarters were replaced and there are HUGE dips all along the seam, up at the top. Working on that now. Hope the bottom is better, lol.Lets walk around to the other side! I guide coated it with a mist of black spray paint and lightly blocked it yesterday so the customer could see the waviness. If you look closely, you can see how bad these panels are. LOTS of blocking ahead, each panel might take me a day or three.
I also found it very interesting how you guys cut the bumper end off to get it right. Usually I take them to the plating shop and have them stripped before I work on them ( they do it for free because they recover the chemicals). Then you weld the end on with your welder and grind everything smooth before plating? Is that how it works? The bumpers were flush from the factory weren't they? You are just getting the fit perfect right? Just like door gaps, fender fit ect. Sorry for all the questions. But it's always nice to learn from the professionals.
Drive it before your dead!