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Shifters for TH400

  
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Shifters for TH400

 
69GP_WGF 69GP_WGF
New User | Posts: 21 | Joined: 12/13
Posted: 12/03/13
10:12 PM

I have a 69, 428 Grand Prix, with TH400 and typical ratchet shifter on floor (console).  As with many of these, at this age and mileage, the shift linkage is loose, lots of problems.  I want to address this, which is new to me, and was wondering if GP's ever had the Hurst Dual Gate shifters typically found on the GTO's?  And, is it feasible to change my shifter to an old Hurst dual Gate (I am sure I could install after market B&M ratchet shifter, etc., but want to stay close to original.  

idrivejunk idrivejunk
Addict | Posts: 5148 | Joined: 12/09
Posted: 12/04/13
05:41 AM

The SSJ (Hurst) was available with an "auto stick" and I think thats the only auto shifter offered other than what you have. I would think that a GTO shifter could be swapped in, but there may not be a console bezel available to make it look like it grew there because a GP console is different. Mine is actually a column shift auto bench seat Model J. If I were you I would restore whats there if possible. FYI that same ratchet shifter came in lots of other cars so it could be an easy find if you would like to replace it. I have one from a 72 GP on my coffee table still in good working condition but minus knob. I plan to swap that in one day but it turns out bench seat column shift cars have several differences aside from just the shifter.  
idrivejunk

69GP_WGF 69GP_WGF
New User | Posts: 21 | Joined: 12/13
Posted: 12/07/13
07:07 AM

IDJ, thanks - I think I asked this question or started to address this issue before  - I think I was confused on where to post some of the questions.

Anyway, on another post, someone wants to swap a dual gate shifter from a 68 GTO into a 69 LeMans, and says that the dual gate was mounted to the floor while the ratchet shifter in the LeMans was mounted to the console - and apparently there are some differences in the two consoles.

I think the big problem with the GP swap would be that there is so little room to work with on the console - as you know (the 1,2 and 3 on the right side of the shifter are only a few centimeters away from the console's vinyl covering).  And I think this would be an issue with trying to install something like a B%M ratchet shifter - I think the shifter would work fine, but the GP console would have to be altered, and I don't think any way of the mounting plates for the B&M (or other shifters from Hurst, etc.) would fit.

I am thinking what I really need to do is simply disassemble my console and address the shifter and linkage issues.  I THINK there are two things - one simply being checking out that the shifter unit is working properly - and more importantly, adjusting (or rebuilding) the linkage - and that should fix issues with the shifter - which are: it is just sloppy (front to back, and left to right) and doesn't "click" into the proper gear at the proper position.  The other issue is that when I go to park, I have to check to make sure the car is REALLY in park - that is, I may have to rotate, by hand, the column - to click into park.  I assume this is a different issue - there is a rod/linkage system that ties the trans to the steering column, right?  If I sorted out these things, I'd be happy with stock unit - I was just wondering if I had to disassemble and adjust and tweak things, IF it might be good to change to another shifter (dual gate, B&M, Hurst, etc.), but I think I'd end up dealing with the same issues in the swap anyway  -and might as well simply fix what I have.

Thanks for the help!  

shyrgfuh3 shyrgfuh3
Enthusiast | Posts: 470 | Joined: 11/13
Posted: 12/07/13
07:15 AM

it sounds like with all the hassle you are better off with a stocker.

the rod to the column looseness can be repaired. if it does not use bushings and the holes in the metal where the end of the rod goes or the rod end itself is worn the hole can simply be welded and redrilled or drilled large enough for a bronze, aluminum or plastic bushing avail at some chain hardware stores and all industrial hardware supply stores and graingers. the rod end can be welded and filled back into shape.

one it is repaired it will feel just as "soft" and sloppy as a new one did...nice.  

idrivejunk idrivejunk
Addict | Posts: 5148 | Joined: 12/09
Posted: 12/08/13
12:42 PM

You're welcome  Smile

I'll bet when you have time to go clean, inspect, and adjust, that you'll find some readily fixable issues. It sounds like there is indeed an adjustment problem and probably a stiff cable. Can't hurt to order one before you go in, and just plan to replace it and service the rest of the linkage system then. The trouble I've run into with that is finding replacement bushings for the shift arm bolted to the trans. Theres supposed to be shouldered oblong bushings in the slots where the bar from the pivot at the frame passes thru the U shaped shift arm. If they are missing it causes the symptoms you describe. In the past, I have slipped a short length of hose over the bar to compensate for missing bushings and it helps but never lasts.

I agree on the bezel conflict with installing a dual gate shifter. Suggest you consider fiberglass to fabricate a custom bezel if still chasing that idea.  
idrivejunk