Just wondering if anyone on here happens to know a company or person that is extremely good at airbrushing. I have a completely restored 80 trans am that I want to have all of the graphics airbrushed instead of using the decals. This would include all of the striping, misc. trans am logos, and the bringing the hood bird to life with a fire design and completing the job with clear coat. I live in SE Idaho and would like it to be some what close. Thanks. Wally
air brushed.. with soft edges to the stripes??talk to the sign painting companies.. or the industrial or automotive paint stores in your area.. also.. biker bars or biker pool halls.. even harley dealers.. or motorcycle shops.. to get the bird on the hood right.. you might end up building a 2x4 easel for it.. so the painter can work on it out of the car without fear of dropping it.. bolt it to the easel.. so its surrounded by the 2x4s with several inches around the edges. use the hinge mounting bolt holes and the latch bolt holes.. think simpson strong ties for mounting brackets to the 2x4s..you will also need an image enlarger or tracer.. this way the image can be properly projected onto the hood.. then outlines traced to get the image as close to perfect shape and form as usual.. one will want to measure from the front of the case to the hood and note that measurement.. so additional layers can be layed out.
I like your idea of painting it on, decals are shortcuts and it looks like it when your done.I painted the bird on the hood of a 1978 Firebird back in 1982, the owner wanted the colors changed and wanted it painted, the decal was about $800.00 at that time.I laid it all out on the car, started with the center line and laid it all out with a penciled grid then using a picture, that's what we called photos at the time, of the original on the hood, then used fine line tape and stenciled most of it then detailed with the airbrush. the owner wanted it to look as if it was a decal. The car was black.Did another one in the mid 80s on an El Camino, turned that one into a flame bird, brought it down into the doors, used all candy colors for that one. I live in northwest Ohio so, little help on my end.If you stencil your emblems first then detail with the airbrush, they look more 3D in my opinion.Good luck on finding someone to help you!GTO guy
That much lettering could be overly challenging for many folks to make happen in a crisp accurate manner with no fuzzy edges. Even if using a stencil. It is a common practice to clear over decals, in the case of lettering. After sanding, the raised clearcoat edge would be dealt with by a second application of clear, as usual. "True fire" and a custom chicken is certainly up to your selected artist. The place I work offers these services, but is in Arkansas. This is something that should really be done as part of the base paint job. Adding clear coats to a cured existing finish is sort of like asking it to peel later. Product selection and preparation will be important. Good luck with your search!
the plan is to take the car in, completely sand or rather scuff the existing surface then have the airbrush work done then back to have it recleared. am I still looking at a pealing problem going this route.
Sanding is a must before you do any airbrush or any other custom painting, also make sure all the wax is removed, you can buy wax remover at your local supplier.After airbrush work is finished your colors have to be locked down. Start by thinning your clear a little more than normal and just coat your custom work not the whole car. After its dry, sand lightly to remove any micro nubs or dirt standing up, not to heavy so you don't sand through into your color, then recoat the same area with about two normal coats to give a little more to thickness so you can sand it smooth.If you do all your sanding on the car prior to all your custom painting, you'll be ready for clear coat for your overall.Stop worrying about it pealing or separating, it will not happen.The clear will bond just fine to the old paint as long as you do a good job sanding.GTO guy
Wally, GTOguy is telling you right about prep work. And the stuff does stick, believe me I would know if mine didn't! I would prefer two normal coats over the work area followed by thorough leveling then another two coats over the whole panel.The idea is to end up with no less than two coats worth of clear at the thinnest point after ALL the polishing is done. Crash work standards use two coats then lightly sand and buff. But with any custom striping situation where you know you'll want to knock it flat then buff you'll want that extra coat of clear for long life in sunshine.Thats a hazard of striping over paint that has already been cut. Not only is it tough to not break through it but by the time you have it ready to stripe its getting pretty thin all over. Its just a less safe bet than doing it over an unbuffed paint job because paint can squirm around in the sun when its thin and layered. Don't be alarmed if more of the base color needs to be applied somewhere on the car even though you're doing it right, as you are planning. Carry on, it sounds like a beautiful car! Pics when you finish!
Thanks Guys, Really appreciate the input. Have found a guy that I am sure can do the work, but its not going to be cheep. Looking at another 8000. into a car that I already have 25,000 in, but what the hell only going to do this once and it'll be one of a kind. will post some pictures when its done but it's going to be awhile.