Hi I have a 1965 GTO with extreme overheating problem. I have replaced thermostat, new flo cooler water pump 11 bolt with new timing chain cover because the old one completely gone on the inside.I had the radiator boiled out and checked still overheating. I was going to a show tonight everything good at first, after about 30 miles temp out of sight and it done this gradually not all at once. I feel like there is something wrong in the block but I'am clueless as where to look,much help needed.Thanks Richard
helloi see you are new, welcome.how long has it done this?how wide is your rad?how thick is the core exactly?how many rows deep?how far is block bored?what is outdoor temp?is it hot at slow and fast speeds?
Shy is right,Any info you can give would help. Engines over heat for some main reasons.Not enough coolantToo fast coolant flowtoo slow coolant flowThese can be caused by any number of conditions. The block might havae a blockage in the coolant passage. did you replace the seals in the timing chain cover for the inlet and outlets off the front of the block?Are you sure your gauge is accurate? Best way to tell is to use a thermal heat gun to check various spots on the motor when it is running.There are several more areas that might cause this, but we need more info.
I like overkill !Buy a 3 or 4 row Champion alum rad, a 7 blade fan, and make sure the fan is well inside a good, full shroud.And be sure to bend your water pump plate in as close to the pump impellers as you can get it without touching. This seems to make a big difference in the cooling ability of the pump !
hello;champion rads are actually underkill. they and all other chinese made rads hold between 20 and 40 percent less water than a us made rad.the narrow section of the chinese tubes is around 1/32" narrower than a us made tube for some odd reason. i'm sure its not because they might not like us and want our cars to overheat though.also, champion and some other chinese rad mgs make extravagant and inaccurate claims of being able to cool "up 750 horswpower" which simply ain't true by any stretch of the imagination on at least some of the rads they make this particular claim about..
One thing Jim mentioned is often overlooked - blockage in the water passages. Flushing the block with a high power water hose, and even running a long wire brush through can sometimes help with heating problems. I've been shocked at how much hidden rusty crud comes flowing out, especially if the engine has set for any length of time with water still in the passages.
http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/287874/http://www.pomonaswapmeet.com/blog/2013/05/21/ledfoot-racing/http://www.championradiators.com/http://www.camaros.net/forums/archive/index.php/t-208273.htmlhttp://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/champion-racing-radiators-good-bad.851623/http://www.78ta.com/HTAF/index.php?topic=32300.0http://www.clubhotrod.com/shop-talk/50830-ebay-radiators-any-good.htmlhttp://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=38811.0The Champion guys seem to have a rep for giving real good service. But there are certainly other brands of alum rads out there. But it's sorta like with the forged rods. Anything made in the USA is gonna be higher because of labor costs. Griffin seems to be a name that some guys like. Summit also sells cheap alum rads. I like the idea of a 160 degree thermo(many prefer a 180), a 7-blade fan, a good shroud, a thick rad, and even a big pusher fan in front of the rad, with a toggle in the cockpit to turn it on if needed.
champion is the only chinese rad that you can get any real help from the company which is located 30 miles from me.it is better than some other chinese rads.as long as you know it hods less water, you can account for that in your calculations of what size rad you might need.